Shep, R.L., Civil War gentlemen: 1860's Apparel Arts & Uniforms,R.L. Shep, Mendocino, 1994.
Brown, William. Interviews by Todd Morris. 35 Minutes. Phone call on March 14, 2004 in reference to Undershirt in Gettysburg National Military Park Museum.
McKee, Paul " The Wartime Use of Civilian Shirts", The Company Wag, August 1993,
Vol. 7, Pp.1-6
Echoes of Glory: Arms & Equipment of the Union, Time Life Books, Alexandria, Va. 1991
We would like to acknowledge special thanks to William Brown III & Chris Sullivan of Stonybrook Clothiers for providing many of the Secondary Resource Materials.
The "On The Square" shirt is our own proprietary pattern derived from research and examining of vintage period shirts, and use of the "Workwoman's Guide". Our shirts are based on the "On The Square" Method of shirt patterning that was the prevalent method of shirt making prior to the advent of commercial shirt manufacturing and the "French Pattern" or cut of shirt. Every one of our shirts features the styles and techniques that were used to produce these styles of shirts.
Our "On The Square" Shirts all feature:
Hand Sewn Button Holes
Machines or Hand Flat Felled Seams
100% Cotton Shirting in Period Styles
Reinforced vents and cuffs
Period Correct Button Placement
There are many period styles cuff. collars, plackets, reinforcements, and pockets. Using "Period" images and by examining "Original" shirts we can make any assorted variety of specimens. Please contact us for options and styles.
We also have several options for buttons to be added to your shirt. The basic shirt come standard with porcelain buttons. We also offer bone, shell, & calico as options.
NOTE: We typically dont make shirts with non period wood buttons. We have examined many shirts, and not a single one has had a wood button on it. She me an original with a wood button and I will go from there.
Our Federal Issue shirt is based on the printed requirements of the Quartermaster for the production of this shirt. The Federal Issue Shirt is a well documented and researched shirt. From these printed studies and copies of original documents we pattered our own shirt.
Our Shirt Features:
Hand Sewn Buttonholes
Paper Backed Tin Buttons
Flat Felled Seams
County Cloth Dmet Flannel
Hand Top Stitching
Hand Top Stitching
Two Pricing Options
Reinforced Vent & Cuff
We produce this shirt in the Original Size
Which comes to a 42 inch chest, 17 inch neck.
These shirts were made in only one size.
If you need a bigger size, please contact us for special pricing.
NOTE: Add $10 for Ben Tart Gray Domet when available
Pricing
Completely Hand Sewn
$145.00
Machine Sewn Seams
Hand Sewn Felling, Button Holes, & Top Stitching
$100.00
"French Cut or Pattern" Shirt
Collar Variations
Single Placket
"On the Square"
We have taken the time to research yet another style of "On The Square" Shirt. We have done extensive review of William Brown's, "Thoughts on Men's Shirt's", along with examining some local shirts and period techniques to draft our own proprietary patterns of the single placket notched collar shirt.
Our Shirts will feature:
Period Machine Sewn Seams
Hand Flat Felled Seams
Period Porcelain Buttons
Hand Sewn Button Holes
Single Front Placket
Triangle Vent Reinforcement
Inside Shoulder Reinforcement
Top Stitched Sleeve Gusset
Neck Gussets
Notched Fold Over Collar
Inside View of Shoulder Reinforcement
Sleeve Gusset
This Shirt is Not Currently Available
Email me about our French Cut Shirt
I now have several patterns that I can work from that have been taken off of shirts in our own collection and several public collections.